Queen Mary had a long neck and a love for the deep collar choker. I started off writing a “making these pieces modern” and then abandoned the idea because they looked so good on her I felt modernizing them was almost indecent. Maybe the style for such jewelry will come around again and become defacto modern. In the meantime, let’s determine our favorites.
- The Love Trophy
This is a very complicated piece but very, very beautiful. It was made for Mary in 1901, using diamonds from other pieces, per Hugh Roberts. It is called the Love Trophy because the center panel contains references to Cupid. (It’s shown below paired with one of her diamond necklaces, because a deep collar choker is not enough for a woman of substance).
2. Eleven Strand Pearl
Currently in the possession of the Duchess of Gloucester, who has also worn it frequently, this choker was thought to be a wedding present of an Indian prince. Queen Mary loved to pair it with strands of pearls – of course!
3. Art Deco Choker
Designed from emeralds presented to her by the Ladies of India in 1911, the necklace was redone in the art deco style in 1921. Let’s just say that Mary was no minimalist, and this was often worn with her diamond collet necklaces and the Delhi Durbar necklace. Also, well known as a Diana piece.
4. Chain Link Bracelets worn as a Choker Necklace
These were a relatively late purchase by Queen Mary. She acquired the first in 1932, and had the second made to match in 1935. The bracelets can link to form the collar necklace. The second bracelet can also accomodate a detachable brooch. The pieces were a modern choice for her, as evidenced by the fact that the very modern current Duchess of Cambridge has worn them as bracelets.
5. Diamond Collets
The Queen owned eight principal diamond collets, of varying lengths, and she wasn’t afraid to wear most of them at once for a grand choker effect.